Ask the expert | Rachel Scott Couture asks does size really matter?
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“Did you know there is no universal standard for clothing sizing, bridal or otherwise?
“Although numerous efforts have been made throughout history to standardise sizes, they have never really amounted to anything, other than confusion and confliction.
“In women’s clothing in particular, the changes throughout history have been dramatic.
“The corsetry of the 1800s completely skewed the female figure into a shape that was unrecognisable (and I suspect, uncomfortable).
“This was followed by years of fashion changes, a post-war economy, and up to the modern age where clothes are looser and body measurements are ever-increasing, before we even touch on the current trend for fitness and power-lifting.
“As women, we’ve grown up in a world where we judge ourselves by the size we wear so, when it comes to the most important day of your life, that pressure to fit or find a certain size can easily feel heightened.
Do bridal sizes come up small compared to the high street?
“There’s a widely accepted urban myth that all bridal sizes run two to three sizes smaller than high street sizing, but it simply isn’t true.
“We can’t generalise either group.
“There are so many factors that come into play when talking about sizing.
“We all generally accept there is no universal standard ‘high street’ size.
“Each brand has created its own individual size chart that best suits their target customer.
“Marks & Spencer will do a very different size 12 to Reiss and their customers want different things.
“Then consider where the brand’s target market lives – sizing will be geared to fit that figure.
“In the UK we tend to have wonderful curves so British designers will generally design styling and size charts to match, while the French might have more slender lines.
“It makes sense then that you may find ‘standard sizes’ for French designers have smaller hip measurements and bust cup sizes than in the UK.
“Other factors also affect how high street sizing works across brands so when it comes down to it, the only true difference between high street “sizing and bridal sizing is that when you’re shopping for ‘normal’ clothes, you have the advantage of years of experience to establish exactly which brands fit you and which don’t.
“With that in mind, it’s feasible to compare brands but don’t compare ‘bridal’ to ‘high street’.
Plus size
“This has always been a bone of contention for me.
“I really struggle with the idea that we should separate people into certain groups.
“Pigeonholing for any reason just doesn’t sit well with me and certainly least of all on a set of measurements.
“You are a bride who needs a dress.
“You’re much more than measurements.
“Why should your dress options be limited to a specific range?
“Why not have access to all? Let’s get you the perfect dress for you as a person.
“In an age of inclusivity, let’s include, not separate.
“I appreciate that the level of couture designers we work with at Rachel Scott Couture means we’re in the privileged position of not having to worry about sizing as we automatically have each client’s dress fully made to measure – no compromise.
“There’s new pattern creation, fully bespoke design, and the perfect fit every time.
“But equally, I choose these designers specifically because of their flexibility and inclusive culture for styling, fit and sizing.
“I don’t think any of us should have to compromise on our wedding day, and least of all because of a set of measurements.
“Get the best dress you can to fit your personality first and let us get you the perfect fit.
Effortless in Temperley London
How shops size your dress
“When we’re measuring clients at Rachel Scott Couture, we’re always doing it with the client and the dress they’ve chosen in mind and base sizing on getting the ideal fit.
“So, talk to your chosen bridal shop and get them to chat you through things.
“Find out if there’s the option for made to measure or even mixing two sizes?
“What about half sizes?
“It’s not always about “does it technically fit?”
“It’s about “does it fit the way your styling wants it to?”
“With our Vivienne Westwood designs for example, two brides could have exactly the same measurements but one may want it super-tight and waist cinching
while the other bride might want a softer fit.
“We make sure to fit to their personality and preference, not being strict on what the size chart says.
“Talk to the bridal shop you’ve chosen and be part of the process.
“It’s your dress after all.
Vivienne Westwood – ‘Nova Cocotte’
When to get measured
“Perhaps because I’m such a fanatic for a truly perfect fit, we tend to leave the technical measurements as late as possible – accuracy is everything.
“So even if you’re ordering your dress with us 18 months before your wedding, we are unlikely to take your measurements until around four or five months before the big day.
“Sometimes even later if there are specific things to consider like if you’re losing weight, body-building, just had a baby or are recovering from surgery.
“In advance of that, we let the designer know what dress you’re going for and your wedding date, so we’re all prepared.
“It’s worth noting that the couture system for the specific designers we work with isn’t necessarily the norm so always check with your wedding shop.
“And let the shop know if you think you’re going to be different measurements.
“The more information we have the better choices we can give you.
“Don’t feel you need to leave choosing your dress until you’re the size you want to be on your wedding day.
Fittings
“We always do our fittings in-house so we can ensure you have the perfect fit.
“It’s a real skill adjusting a wedding dress and takes years to master the art.
“However, a lot of shops don’t offer an alterations service so always check before you commit to an order.
“Final fittings can make or break how your dress will look so be sure you’ve got it covered.
Vivienne Westwood – ‘Nova Grace’
Don’t compromise on fit
“Even with my seamstress’ expertise and fit wizardry, some elements of design are nearly impossible to change after the dress is constructed – cup size and
body length proportions being prime examples.
“If you’re a bigger cup size or a petite body length, a standard size is never going to sit perfectly or give you the right support.
“It’s never a case of buying in a bigger size then altering down.
“In our normal lives, we’re often already used to fudging the lines of fit by maybe buying a different size top to skirt, creatively adding a belt, or only buying dresses that don’t have waist band seams.
“When you start exploring wedding dress options, it’s going to be a different scenario.
“If you’re going for a sculpted, tailored style then you’re really going to notice any areas of poor fit so it’s well worth focusing on fully made to measure options where the tailoring can start right from the pattern stage.
“There is nothing more fabulous than a truly perfect fit!
“So, my advice – focus on finding your dream wedding dress because it makes you feel confident and ready to enjoy your special day.
“Let the experts work out the perfect fit.”
Did you know Rachel is our guest columnist and shares her knowledge on all aspects of bridalwear every issue of YSW magazine?
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